Weekender: Off the grid in Slocan City

This article first appeared in print in the August, 2017 issue of Revelstoke Mountaineer Magazine. It was published online on June 22, 2018, but hasn’t been updated since published last August, so lots has changed. The Unity Festival isn’t happening in 2018. The Backyard Bowl Bash is on June 23. 

The beach at Slocan City isn’t usually this busy. Pictured during the Unity Festival. Photo: Aaron Orlando/Revelstoke Mountaineer

Turn your cell phone off and put it away because you’re on Kootenay time now. And because there’s no cell service in Slocan City, which means you’ve got a great excuse to put everyone else in your life on Kootenay time too: talk to you on Monday.

Check out the old tunnel, a 10-minute walk from the main beach. A recent rock collapse adds to the fun. Photo: Aaron Orlando/Revelstoke Mountaineer

Slocan is a tiny hamlet of about 300 at the end of Slocan Lake, and at the head of the Slocan Valley, where the lake surges into the Slocan River. It’s mostly known for access to the lake and as a gateway to the spectacular Valhalla Provincial Park. It was also once home to the Springer Creek Forest Products mill, which shut down and was then demolished a few years ago, leaving a bare 20-acre lot on the foreshore that will be a big factor in the future direction of the village.

Musicians play at the beach as part of Slocan’s annual Unity Festival. Photo: Aaron Orlando/Revelstoke Mountaineer

In July, I dropped by the Unity Festival, an annual music fest at the main beach in town. It’s aligned with the Slocan Valley counter-culture vibe, with lots of blues, reggae and hippie-inspired events. Moms take part in spiritual dancing classes while face-painted kids splash in the water. It’s on the smaller side with maybe 1,000-ish in attendance at any one time in 2017. No beer tent inside lends to a family-friendly feel.

Village of Slocan mayor Jessica Lunn. Photo: Aaron Orlando/Revelstoke Mountaineer

I met Jessica Lunn, the mayor of the Village of Slocan, at the park on Saturday afternoon, where she was getting set up to watch the main stage at the festival. I wanted to know what direction the village has been taking since losing the mill.

Lunn agrees the future of the Springer Creek Forest Products site will be key. She said the town is seeing an influx of remote workers who are attracted to the lifestyle and natural beauty. Tech and creative workers are leveraging the low cost of housing to make a go of it in Slocan.

The main stage at the Unity Festival during the day. Photo: Aaron Orlando/Revelstoke Mountaineer

When the mill was winding down, the ownership sold their tenure to a major forest company, so it seems another mill is unlikely. Still, neatly stacked piles of lumber line the property, aging badly in the weather, a reminder of the past. It served as the parking lot during Unity Festival.

An educational display on river ecosystems at the Unity Festival. Aaron Orlando/Revelstoke Mountaineer

Lunn said determining what happens to the property will be discussed in public planning consultations in the future. For the time being, the village council has supported zoning restrictions on the existing zoning for almost all uses to prevent a random industrial operation (like a warehouse) from tying up the valuable
shoreline property.

A van outside the Unity Festival. Photo: Aaron Orlando/Revelstoke Mountaineer

The mill was a big employer, but also a regional one; many of its employees commuted up the valley to work.

On one side of the lot is the main public beach, on the other the popular climbing spot called Slocan City Bluffs, just a five-minute walk away. One thing the mayor said she would like to see is continuous public access across the property at the shoreline.

A cyclist on the rather sparse main drag. Photo: Aaron Orlando/Revelstoke Mountaineer

There’s no doubt that the property has potential. It stares out onto Slocan Lake with the peaks of Valhalla Provincial Park in the background.

When asked if the loss of the mill was a big blow, people I talked to said yes, but they added that the upside was the potential for development on the waterfront property.

Flaca’s Bakery & Bistro is the main food hangout. Opening hours are limited, so check before you go. Photo: Aaron Orlando/Revelstoke Mountaineer

Lunn, like many from the community, commutes to work. In her case, to Nelson. Bootstrapping the local economy is a big focus for the village, which operates on the shoestring budget provided by a town of 300 with no heavy industry. The village council is working on building a micro-hydro project on Springer Creek, hoping to add a revenue stream.

A family of climbers at the Slocan City Bluffs, located a short walk from the main beach. Photo: Aaron Orlando/Revelstoke Mountaineer

If you stroll around, the transition from mill town to lifestyle destination is evident. There are a few new construction projects on the go, most looking like holiday getaways. There are many lots for sale privately, and they can be had for under $50,000. Still, it looks like it’ll take years to reincarnate; there are many disused buildings and the village is rough around the edges. It has a freewheeling vibe; random dogs wander the streets and many locals pass the day languidly, sipping beers and smoking pot at the beach or chilling out under shade trees — perfect if you’re looking for an unpretentious, cheap weekend getaway. Everything in town is walkable.

Projections on the night stage at Unity Festival. Photo: Aaron Orlando/Revelstoke Mountaineer

Although it’s at a crossroads, the village does have potential. I caught myself phoning a couple numbers on for sale lots — after I got home, because there’s no cell phone service there.

Hiking in Valhalla Provincial Park, climbing on the Slocan City Bluffs and boating on the lake or river are the big attractions.

Backyard Bowl Bash

The Backyard Bowl Bash is an annual memorial skate jam held at Tenacity Skatepark in Slocan, a small but well-done bowl that’s got something for beginners to experts.

Backyard Bowl Bash 2017. Photo: Aaron Orlando/Revelstoke Mountaineer

The event is held in memory of pro skateboarder Josh Evin. Evin hailed from the West Kootenay, where he came up to become one of the best professional skateboarders B.C. has ever produced, all the while repping his grassroots Kootenay identity. He was a devastating skatepark rider who became a leader the Vancouver skatepark riding scene in the mid aughts. He was a fixture at East Van’s Hastings skatepark, where he was known for his head-high boosts. The big hip at Hastings is dedicated in memory to Evin; it’s painted black, with a hammer and sickle logo signifying ‘The Black Russian,’ a nickname that spun off into a brand and a skateshop in Castlegar owned by Evin.

Grinding the deep end. Aaron Orlando/Revelstoke Mountaineer Magazine

He was also a killer street skater known for raiding big, sketchy spots with reckless abandon. He was a tall, lanky rider with good style, a skateboarder’s skateboarder who attacked spots with committed make-or-eat-shit tricks. He also helped a group of talented Kootenay skateboarders break into the Vancouver scene. Evin passed away in a motorcycle accident near Nelson in June of 2010. His friends host the Backyard Bowl Bash in Josh’s memory. This year it raised funds for lighting at the Tenacity Skatepark. Now in its seventh year in 2017, it’s an annual meetup for the West Kootenay skateboarding scene. If you’re into the local skate scene, it’s a must. There were about a dozen Revelstoke locals in attendance at the 2017 event.

Where to eat: Flaca’s Bakery & Bistro has a sprawling patio, great hot breakfasts and lunches, and awesome baked sweets. Try their burritos. They close early, so check their hours when you get there. The grocery store just down the block is actually reasonably priced for a tiny town grocery and has quite a few locally-produced foods.

Where to stay: The Springer Creek Campground is right next to Springer Creek. It’s $20 for a tent site. If you’re on a tight budget, it’s not uncommon to see people pitching tents in random places. Try the pathway to the Slocan City Bluffs for a lakeside spot.

What to do: Chill at the main public beach. Rent a kayak or SUP for a trip on the lake or down the Slocan River. Take one of several hikes into Valhalla Provincial Park (the Gimli Trail to Mulvey Basin day hike is a must). Go fishing on the lake. Blend in and get hippie with the locals. Skate Tenacity Skatepark. Attend the Unity Music Festival in July.

By car: 2.5 hours from Revelstoke if you time the Shelter Bay ferry right.